Bridge Adjustment

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overdog
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:56 pm
Location: Reno, Nevada

Bridge Adjustment

Postby overdog » Mon Jul 11, 2011 11:32 am

Ok. Time to figure out how to adjust my bridge.

Situation: Root strings are in tune. As I play up the neck, it gets sharp. All strings. At the octive level, rather sharp.

I know to fix this is to adjust the bridge. So do I increase the (make the gap between headstock and bridge) longer to get the string in tune? before I mess with the bridge, it may be a good idea to know before hand... :confusion-confused:
- John

If you buy it right the first time, you have nothing to be ashamed of!

Bass: Roscoe SKB 3005 - Sculpted quilt maple top on a swamp ash body. Tobaccoburst finish. 35" scale 24 fret maple neck. Bartolini pickups & 3 band preamp.

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ProDigit
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Location: Florida

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby ProDigit » Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:09 pm

the saddles have to move backwards (away from the neck).

Doing so will make them out of tune, tune them again, and then tune the octave.

overdog
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:56 pm
Location: Reno, Nevada

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby overdog » Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:26 pm

Tks!

That was my assumption...

And we know the true definition of assume....
:mrgreen:
- John

If you buy it right the first time, you have nothing to be ashamed of!

Bass: Roscoe SKB 3005 - Sculpted quilt maple top on a swamp ash body. Tobaccoburst finish. 35" scale 24 fret maple neck. Bartolini pickups & 3 band preamp.

TobiasMan
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Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby TobiasMan » Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:56 pm

Google "setting intonation on bass guitar"

There are numerous video and written guides out there.

http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/se ... ation.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wODY8Cj4hE

This is something that every bass player should be able to do, and essential part of setting up your bass properly!
Feel that bottom, eh?
Steinberger NXT5 EUB, MTD 535 fretless, Tobias Killer B6, 72 Fender P,
David's "pre-DNA" rig (Navs, Qsc PL230, XLT & XST 410s, WT500)

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Bassmann1968
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Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby Bassmann1968 » Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:44 pm

Armin

First european, first german, first old world and first multiple cab user :happy-smileygiantred:

1350, signed by David!
2xDNS112/8
1xDNS410/4

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ProDigit
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Location: Florida

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby ProDigit » Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:32 pm

Found a funny site, called "Let Me Google That For You":

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=set+bridge+bass

:D

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bassmayhem
Posts: 378
Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:18 am
Location: Sweden

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby bassmayhem » Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:57 am

I just check against the harmonics on the 19th fret: the pitch shall be equal when playing the harmonic or fretting the note. If you have a two ochave board, go for the 24th fret. You don't even have to tune up in between the adjustments. The reference pitch is in the harmonic, and that is constant at any pitch. When I change strings I also give the string a little pressure just over the bridge saddle and "angle it" so it wont make a bow, but go at a strait line from saddle to saddle. (Mostly needed on the A, E and B strings...) Remember: if you raise your saddles, you have to adjust them farther back, if you lower them, well, the other way around...

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ProDigit
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Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby ProDigit » Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:05 am

One oddity on tuning the bass, is the first and second fret.
Many basses are quite in tune on all frets (once properly set up and tuned), but because the nut has a higher distance from the fretboard than the frets, usually the low E can be in tune, but the F can be a bit sharp.
Then the F# is a few cents less off scale, but around the G/G#/A on the E string, your bass is again in tune...

If I have the time I try to tune the open string, octave harmonics vs octave fret, and second octave (for those who have 2 octave basses); and few times I'd also do a few notes inbetween for reference, just with setting up a new instrument...


One way to get rid of the sharp in an F, is to lower the nut. Normally they file off the nut on the bottom, I take a round file, and file off a bit of the groove where the string is placed in.
The trick is to file it off low enough for the strings to hover over the fretboard, but not too low, for them to buzz; and if you do file off too much, and one string starts buzzing, placing a little black paper in the groove under the string can do miracles!

TobiasMan
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Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby TobiasMan » Thu Jul 14, 2011 12:02 pm

Tuned in one place, but not in another?

That's were the Buzz Feiten tuning system comes in. Michael Tobias uses it on his new basses.

My MTD is fretless so no application there, but his new fretted basses are made with it.

http://www.buzzfeiten.com/
Feel that bottom, eh?
Steinberger NXT5 EUB, MTD 535 fretless, Tobias Killer B6, 72 Fender P,
David's "pre-DNA" rig (Navs, Qsc PL230, XLT & XST 410s, WT500)

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bassmayhem
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Location: Sweden

Re: Bridge Adjustment

Postby bassmayhem » Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:04 pm

The Buzz Feiten system is overkill on a bass i.m.o. If you do like TobiasMan does (as well as yours truly) and file the nut to proper height, you'll have a bass that plays in tune all the way. The best thing is a zero fret, then you get the same tone with open strings as with fretted, and you have the correct height. When fretting a note on the first fret, you'll have a gap between the string and the second fret. It should be exactly like that when playing open strings: a small distance between the string and the first fret.

ALL my basses play in tune in every position, even my home built six string. Also - if the string goes in a bow over the nut (B, E and A strings), the bass won't play in tune. Just press over the edge of the nut to "straighten it out". That can do serious difference.

Another thing - all Warwick basses have height adjustable nut. That is a really smart thing.


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